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How getting a turkey from freezer to table

BUYING

Allow 1 to 1 ½ pounds per person for a whole turkey, 3/4 pound for a whole breast, ½ pound for boneless meat. For a crowd, buy two small birds (12 to 15 pounds) rather than one big one; turkeys over 20 pounds cook unevenly.

THAWING

• Defrost a frozen turkey in its original wrapping in the refrigerator, allowing 24 hours for each 5 pounds (three days, for example, for a 15-pound turkey). Thawed, raw turkey will keep in the refrigerator for up to three days.

• Speed thaw: The only faster safe method is to put the still-wrapped turkey in a sink or big basin and cover it with cold water. Change the water every 30 minutes, and allow 30 minutes per pound — 6 hours, for example, for a 12-pound turkey.

• Safety first: Never thaw a turkey at room temperature; it encourages dangerous bacterial growth.

PREPPING

Remove and discard wrapping and remove neck and giblets. Pat turkey dry with paper towels. Season inside and out with salt and pepper. If desired, place coarsely chopped carrot, onion and celery or halved oranges or grapefruit in the cavity for flavor.

BOOSTING FLAVOR

• Salting: Brining has been abandoned in many quarters in favor of simpler, less messy salting. Be sure to start with a natural (not kosher, not injected) turkey. Cook’s Illustrated magazine’s December issue recommends separating the turkey skin from the meat on the legs, thighs and back with your hands. Then rub 1 tablespoon kosher salt inside the cavity and 1 ½ teaspoons under the skin of each breast and each leg (for 3 tablespoons total). Wrap the turkey tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours.

• Butter rub: Herb butter imparts lovely flavor. The Associated Press adapted this lemon-thyme version from Cook’s Illustrated: Mix 4 tablespoons softened, unsalted butter with 3 minced garlic cloves, 2 tablespoons minced fresh thyme, 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest, 3/4 teaspoon table salt and 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper. Loosen the skin all over the turkey and rub butter between it and the meat. Replace the skin and rub remaining butter on the outside of the skin. Roast as directed.

STANDARD ROASTING

• Heat the oven to 325 degrees.

• Brush the turkey skin with vegetable oil or rub with butter.

• Tuck wing tips under the bird and place breast-side up on a rack in a shallow roasting pan.

• Baste, if desired, with melted butter or pan drippings every 30 to 45 minutes.

• When the turkey skin is lightly golden, tent the breast with foil to minimize overcooking.

Timing: The U.S. Department of Agriculture gives these approximate roasting times for whole, unstuffed turkey: 8-12 pounds, 2 3/4 to 3 hours; 12-14 pounds, 3 to 3 3/4 hours; 14-18 pounds, 3 3/4 to 4 1/8 hours; 18-20 pounds, 4 1/4 to 4 ½ hours.

Begin checking for doneness with an instant-read thermometer about 30 minutes before the suggested time has elapsed. The turkey is done to USDA specifications when the thigh meat at the thickest point registers 165 degrees.

About stuffing: It’s simpler and safer to bake dressing in a casserole dish. If you must stuff, combine wet and dry ingredients just before using and spoon loosely into the turkey cavity. A stuffed turkey takes up to 30 minutes longer to roast to get the stuffing to the desired 165 degrees.